No Beer, No Civilization? No Way!

George Will’s latest column claims ”No Beer, No Civilization.”

The development of civilization depended on urbanization, which depended on beer. To understand why, consult Steven Johnson’s marvelous 2006 book, “The Ghost Map: The Story of London’s Most Terrifying Epidemic—and How It Changed Science, Cities, and the Modern World.” It is a great scientific detective story about how a horrific cholera outbreak was traced to a particular neighborhood pump for drinking water. And Johnson begins a mind-opening excursion into a related topic this way:

“The search for unpolluted drinking water is as old as civilization itself. As soon as there were mass human settlements, waterborne diseases like dysentery became a crucial population bottleneck. For much of human history, the solution to this chronic public-health issue was not purifying the water supply. The solution was to drink alcohol.”

Often the most pure fluid available was alcohol—in beer and, later, wine—which has antibacterial properties. Sure, alcohol has its hazards, but as Johnson breezily observes, “Dying of cirrhosis of the liver in your forties was better than dying of dysentery in your twenties.” Besides, alcohol, although it is a poison, and an addictive one, became, especially in beer, a driver of a species-strengthening selection process. ...

To avoid dangerous water, people had to drink large quantities of, say, beer. But to digest that beer, individuals needed a genetic advantage that not everyone had—what Johnson describes as the body’s ability to respond to the intake of alcohol by increasing the production of particular enzymes called alcohol dehydrogenases. This ability is controlled by certain genes on chromosome four in human DNA, genes not evenly distributed to everyone. Those who lacked this trait could not, as the saying goes, “hold their liquor.” So, many died early and childless, either of alcohol’s toxicity or from waterborne diseases.

The gene pools of human settlements became progressively dominated by the survivors—by those genetically disposed to, well, drink beer. “Most of the world’s population today,” Johnson writes, “is made up of descendants of those early beer drinkers, and we have largely inherited their genetic tolerance for alcohol.”

All well and good, but it is likely that the earliest drinkers - from whom we are all apparently descended - were drinking wine (albeit not necessarily grape wine) rather than beer.

Lee Berger is “is a paleoanthropologist, physical anthropologist and archeologist and is best known for his work on Australopithecus africanus body proportions and the Taung Bird of Prey Hypothesis.” In his paper, Wine at the Dawn of Civilization, Berger explains that:

Fermentation is, of course, the process that produces certain alcoholic beverages like wine and beer. In general terms, fermentation is the breaking down of complex organic substances into simple organic substances. During the process, waste products are produced. The waste product most important for the production of consumable alcoholic beverages is ethyl alcohol. Fermentation to produce ethyl alcohol requires the presence of yeasts. For barley and other grains to ferment, yeasts must be introduced. In early societies, men and women may have accomplished this by adding human saliva, a good source of natural yeasts, to the mash by chewing grains and then spitting them into a container to ferment. Grapes and many other fruits, however, have yeasts naturally growing on their skins, so that with no additives and thus no deliberate input by humans, grape juice will turn into wine if just left to sit. This natural advantage over grains makes it likely that fruit-based beverages like wine were the first intoxicating beverages to be used by humans.

In Africa, where I conduct my explorations into human origins, many fruiting trees have natural yeasts present. Under certain conditions, these fruits ferment when they fall to the ground. One such tree, the marula, is legendary as a source of naturally occurring fermented alcohol. The legend, unfortunately, stems from filmed demonstrations made many years ago of cavorting monkeys and staggering elephants dining on fermented marula fruits; these were thought to be staged, but more recent studies have confirmed that many animals in Africa deliberately seek out fermented fruits in order to become intoxicated, and primates are among the most frequent elbow-benders. ...

So was the origin of civilization bound to the fermentation of grapes and the making of wine? Certainly the timing is right, and as I mentioned, humans and our ancestors have probably been seeking out ways of accessing fermented fruits for their intoxicating effects in Africa for tens of thousands, if not millions, of years. It really is not too much of a scientific leap of faith to suggest that once humans had conducted these early chemistry experiments and could control the process of fermentation, that it, along with complex changes in social organization, may have provided a critical stimulus to the development of the first permanent settlements, and then to extensive trade routes to allow the effective sharing of the product of the grape.

No wine, no civilization. 

Posted on Thursday, July 10 2008 | Permalink

The only problem with this is wine sucks. BEER RULES!!!

Posted by  on  07/10  at  03:16 PM

Yes I agree.  I think beer is a relatively late development.  I think beer came about as a substitute for mead.  I think mead developed from the accidental fermentation of a hop, or other herb flavored tea sweetened with honey.  As the mead drinkers--like Beowulf--became more settled and agricultural, they learned to make a substitute--and more plentiful--honey by boiling down malted barley.  From whence--beer.  There were some grain-based drinks used in Egypt and Sumer, they were actually made from fermented bread.  They wouldn’t count as beer today.  In Africa today, tribal people make a beer-like drink by chewing up sorghum and spiting it in a fermentation pot.  I wouldn’t call it beer.

Posted by  on  07/10  at  03:28 PM

Well the wine-beer drinking areas seem to vary by more than just soil and climate.  You can have both rice wine and rice beer for instance.  In the Sourhtern Part of Africa, Sorghum Beer is the drink.  While grapes are available around the Med and suprisingly far North into Europe grain seemed to be the easiest aquired fermentation base.  Wine for Mi’lord and a short beer for Jaque. The discovery of the Irish brewing pits explains while they were civilized they were civilized in a very strange way. 
I don’t know what the problem with Germany was, the beer has been good but apparently they didn’t produce enough of the Rhine whines and etc.

Posted by  on  07/10  at  03:37 PM

Wherever else wine prevailed, ancient Egypt was all about beer, and that’s pretty ancient. Ancient Egyptian beer was rich in tetracycline, and though the chemistry of that was of course was not known to ancient Egyptian doctors, the benefits of their beer (which was the same thick mix consumed by the Nubians) were. (link)

Beer featured prominently and positively in Egyptian writing and religion, including in the worship of Min (the ithyphallic fertility god whose festivals were so much fun) and Sekhmet / Hathor. Hathor was a benevolent goddess of love, beauty and strangers / foreigners. Her other side was Sekhmet, the raging lioness-headed plague goddess. The theological significance of drunkenness was that she was tamed and turned into Hathor, and thus mankind was saved from her wrath, by plying her with beer.

Posted by  on  07/10  at  03:38 PM

Yeah right, tell it to the Sumerians… ‘Cuz ancient Mesopotamia was such a great place to grow grapes as opposed to, say, grains…

Posted by  on  07/10  at  03:43 PM

I think the debate over the which came first time line is irrelevant here. First, I would suggest that alcoholic beverages in general were helpful in civilization’s development, but not from a health standpoint. Booze helped create civilization because if you want booze on hand year-round (and who doesn’t?), you need the trappings of early civilization to accomplish that feat.
Yes, Wine likely predates Beer in our diet, but I think the difference is that Wine has never been a morning, noon, and night beverage, year round. Watered wine perhaps, to a very small extent, but watered wine probably does not provide the prophylactic health benefits that beer, ale, and especially (for the purposes of this argument) small beer do.
So, we may have developed civilization to help us make wine, but Beer is what allowed us to survive the epidemiological consequences of living in that nascent civilization.

Posted by Doug Winship  on  07/10  at  04:45 PM

ken in sc
In Africa today, tribal people make a beer-like drink by chewing up sorghum and spiting it in a fermentation pot.  I wouldn’t call it beer.
That pretty much describes Chicha, the corn-based cider in the Andes.

Posted by  on  07/10  at  04:54 PM

Beer is a very early concoction and I believe roughly 10,000 yo samples have been found in Iraq archeological exploration. 

I would point out, anything with sugar will ferment.  The Mongolians drink fermented mares milk.

I am sure in times of food crises many fermented items were tried.

Posted by  on  07/10  at  05:01 PM

As a homebrewer of beer and (occasional) maker of mead, I can attest that beer’s harder to make, which would certainly suggest that it came later than wine. To make beer, you have to mash grain (crush the grains, steep them like herb tea [but not boil them] to change their starches to sugars, trickle more hot water over them to draw out those sugars), boil the resulting liquid down for a good while, add hops (if making modern beer) at intervals, cool the whole shebang, add yeast (if making modern beer - wild yeast will make beer, but you can’t guarantee it’s going to taste good, unlike with “domesticated” yeast), and ferment until most sugars are consumed, then add back a little sugar (if making modern beer) for carbonation purposes, then age it. Mead you make by pasteurizing honey (heating to not-quite-boiling), adding yeast (unless you want to rely on wild yeast, with same uncertain results as with beer), fermenting for a LOOOONG time, and bottling.

Luckily for me there’s the significant shortcut to beermaking of using pre-made malt extract plus as much crushed grain as I want to handle.

But the POINT is, maybe wine did come first because it could happen by chance more easily, but beer certainly must have had a large role in bringing about the domestication of grains and, hence, of men to work the fields. And the OTHER point is, beer and wine are both delicious, so bully for early humans!

Posted by  on  07/10  at  10:32 PM

Many beer historians believe that beer was ‘discovered’ almost as soon as bread was being made.  All it would take for fermentation would be for some dry bread to become wet, and ferment naturally from wild yeasts.  It’s true that in most modern beer production that yeasts are introduced, but that was not the case long ago.  Belgian lambics are still produced by placing the wort (unfermented beer) in shallow troughs out in the open, allowing the wild yeasts to do their work.  While wine may predate beer (simply because grapes predate bread), there is more historical evidence that beer fueled the growth of civilization.  There is even cuneform evidence that the ancient Mesopotamian workers who built their grand civilization were paid with beer.  I’m sticking with Will on this argument (although I have nothing against a good Merlot!)

Posted by  on  07/11  at  11:21 AM

Yes me too, the only problem is beer is better than wine. Oh thats was a good explanation about the beer that you have given above, Ken in sc. But as far as i know, people in my area prefer drinking beer with the rice and not that much wine.

Posted by hinduja  on  07/12  at  09:16 AM
Commenting is not available in this weblog entry.

Introduction


Recent Wine & Food Entries

Hot Topics on Law & Business


Hot Topics on Punditry


Punditry RSS Feed

Flickr

Archives

My Books




Blogroll