Professor Bainbridge...on law, politics, religion, culture & food

Duckhorn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley) 1999

All ageworthy red wines go through a dumb phase during which the forward fruity flavors and aromas of youth fade away but the more complex bouquet and flavors of maturity have not yet evolved. The 99 Duckhorn Cabernet is in just such a stage. Upon release a couple of years ago, it was a huge fruit bomb with massive tannins. Now, however, it's pretty much shut down. The tannins and acids form the principal impression, although there's still a reasonable amount of fruit underneath. My guess is that it needs at least three more years in the cellar, after which it should be magnificent. If I were grading it for current pleasure, I'd have to slot it somewhere in the C range. But I bet that, upon maturity, it'll bump back up to A level.