Professor Bainbridge...on law, politics, religion, culture & food

Opus One (Napa Valley) 2004

In light of Robert Mondavi’s recent passing, it seems indelicate to suggest that Opus One ought to be better than it’s proven to be over the years, but to my taste this remains one of the most consistently over-priced California reds. It can rarely compete with either of its “parents”; i.e., Mondavi’s Cabernet Sauvignon or Baron Philippe’s Mouton-Rothschild.

The 2004’s bouquet offers a lot of dark berry fruit but also is quite earthy and has a slight whiff of sweaty saddle, suggesting Brettanomyces yeasts might have gotten at the wine at some point.

On the palate, the wine is dominated by complex dark fruit, leather, cedar, and cocoa.

It’s a biggish wine with a firm structure. It might well reward cellaring, but it’s not a wine in which I would choose to invest.

Grade: B+