Professor Bainbridge...on law, politics, religion, culture & food

Behrens & Hitchcock Ink Grade Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley) 1998

We are constantly told that 1998 was a dreadful year for California wines. Indeed, in the latest issue of the Wine Spectator, 1998 is the only vintage between 1994 and 2006 omitted from their Cabernet vintage chart. Curiously, however, I’ve had pretty good luck with this vintage by sticking to certain favorite producers. This Behrens & Hitchcock Cabernet is a good example. It’s still a very deep ruby, although it has thrown more than enough sediment to require decanting. Black currant jam mixes with a smell suggesting a cigar humidor. Cedar and cherry on the finish. It won’t last forever, but I’ll space the three bottles left in my cellar out over the next 5 years without much worry. Grade: B++