Professor Bainbridge...on law, politics, religion, culture & food

Ridge Lytton Springs (Dry Creek Valley) 2000

A blend of 80% zinfandel and 20% petite sirah. Medium-deep purple shading to ruby at the rim. No hint of bricking yet. Moderate nose. A little hot, expressing the high alcohol (almost 15%). Spicy and a little brambly. Blackberries and nettles, with a whiff of coffee pot. On the palate, the wine is big and brawny. Over the last year, however, the flavors have mellowed and blended. What started out as a jammy fruit salad with an odd funky note or two has smoothed into a warm berry jam. The finish is hot and moderately tannic. Highly concentrated. I've got a bit over half a case left and will hold off for another year or two, as it is still evolving. Grade: B+

Newton Merlot Special Cuvee (Napa Valley) 1999

Much California merlot is insipid industrial stuff. There are definite exceptions, however, and Newton is one of them. Deep purple, with relatively little fading at the rim. Looks even younger than it is. Very strong legs. Big, intense nose of black cherry and tobacco. Strong oak overtones on the nose and palate: toast and vanilla. Long finish with well-rounded but firm tannins. It's got lots of stuffing, which suggests it can go a while yet (maybe 2009?). Definitely Napa in its lush fruitiness, but could hold its head up among the best St. Emillion. Grade: A-

Joseph Phelps Merlot (Napa Valley) 2000

We had this wine tonight at one of the good wife's favorite LA bistros. As is all too often the case in restaurants, it was served too warm and in glasses that were too small. Note to restaurant managers: The idea that red wines should be served at "room temperature" evolved in upper class British homes that had real wine cellars and dining rooms lacking central heating. Room temperature as applied to red wines means low 60s, not the 70+ typical of US restaurants and homes. At 70 degrees, red wines tend to taste flabby. They also tend to smell and taste hot, in the high alcohol rather than temperature sense of the word, because that temperature emphasizes the alcohol in the nose and on the palate. Anyway, on to the wine. Deep purple all the way to the rim. Modest nose, although given the serving temperature and the small glasses, it was not a fair test. Tasty mix of the usual supects: red currants and dried cherries, mocha, oriental spices, especially anise, with a hint of earth. Good finish, with a fairly tannic grip. Recommended. Grade: B+

Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley) 1996

Very fine, maturing nicely, but still improving. Great color. Still a relatively deep, very pretty purple at the core but shading to brick at the rim. Relatively modest nose, but very typical. Dark fruit, leather, and cigar box. Black cherries, dried currants. lead pencil shavings, sage and oriental spices, tar and tobacco on the palate. Finishes with a fairly strong tannic grip, suggesting it can improve for several more years.

Dow 10 Year-old Tawny Port NV

I'm of two minds when it comes to 10 year old tawny ports. On the one hand, they're usually about 50% the price of 20 year old tawnys but, to my palate, deliver about 85% of the sensual experience of a 20 year old. Dollar for dollar they are the better value and therefore should be tipple of choice. Yet, all things considered, I prefer the 20 year old to the 10 year old. That last 15% seems to matter a lot. Must be some sort of declining (rising?) marginal something of something. Having said that, this is a really delicious port. It is simultaneously bright and limpid in appearance, with strong legs. The nose is complex, ranging from cashews to dried apricots, with a touch of almond extract and vanilla. The palate is classic tawny port. English toffee, caramel, orange blossom honey, almonds, and espresso. I still like Dow's 20 year old tawny better, but this is a very fine port. Grade: A-

Pine Ridge Merlot Crimson Creek (Napa Valley) 2000

Very good. Deep purple with strong legs. Strong cabernet-like nose of currants, cedar and tar. Approachable with smooth tannins. Complex flavors of red currants, berries, mocha, lead pencil and leather. Medium-long finish. Great steak wine. Grade: B+

What would Al Bundy drink?

The Wine Spectator reports that "French Wines Still Facing Hard Times in U.S. Market":

Sales of French wines have been suffering in the United States ever since March, when some American consumers threatened boycotts to show their displeasure over France's opposition the U.S. plan to invade Iraq. But with the passage of time and changes in the global political situation, have French wines been recovering in the market? Not according to the latest figures on wine imports and retail sales.

The six months of retail sales data available since March from Information Resources Inc. shows that French wines dropped in each of six periods through mid-August compared with 2002, yet Americans bought more table wine overall in that time. And imports of French table wine were down more than 20 percent for each of the months of May, June and July, according to Impact Databank. The first shipment declines, of only 1.1 percent, were noted in April. In contrast, imports were up 22 percent in January.

Yet many specialty fine-wine retailers around the country say that political resentment against France has only had a small impact on them and that other economic factors are at work.

The last is almost certainly the sort of puffery one gets from anybody trying to sell something (hey, I say the same sort of things about my books!). Consider that the blockbuster 2000 Bordeaux vintage has to be keeping sales from falling off a cliff -- no wine geek can pass that one up, no matter how sterling their neo-con credentials. Once that fabulous vintage works through the marketplace, and gives way to the far less impressive 2001, we'll have a better sense of just how bad the damage to French wine sales in this country will be long-term. My guess, and its just a guess, is that there will be a long-term hit. Not so much because Americans hold long grudges, but because American consumers shifted short-term to Australian or Italian wines (note that total wine imports are up, despite the drop in French imports). And, I'd be willing to bet that American consumers will find that Italian and, especially, Australian wines appeal to the American palate. Most American wine drinkers I know tend to favor wines that are intensely fruity and oaky, with rich and complex flavors, but with smooth tannins that make the wine accessible early without extended aging. Which is a great description of Australian and Italian wines, not to mention most of our domestics, but leaves many French wines out. A short-term political change in behavior thus may have long-term consequences on the palate.

Star reviews

Most of the wines reviewed here were purchased by me, but a number of wineries are sending me free samples to review. Reviews of the latter wines are indicated by an asterisk in the title. Wineries wishing to submit wines for review should email me.